How to Care for Your Tortoise

Several species of tortoises are commonly kept as pets in Victoria. These notes are designed to assist owners who have no previous experience with these reptiles.

The Order Chelonia contains a number of families whose members are variously known as turtles, tortoises or terrapins. There are no hard and fast rules about these terms. As a guide the term “TURTLE” applies to marine forms which are generally large, have paddle like limbs and live in the sea from which they emerge only to lay eggs. Land “TORTOISES” vary in size, have domed shells, club-like feet and rarely enter the water. There are no true land tortoises native to Australia. Many other forms have more flattened shells, webbed and clawed feet, inhabit freshwater and frequently venture onto land. These are variously known as freshwater turtles, terrapins or water-tortoises. In Australia they are usually called “FRESHWATER TORTOISES”. The common Australian tortoises belong to the family Chelidae the “SIDE NECKED TORTOISES”.

Freshwater tortoises have two distinct shell surfaces - the upper shell or CARAPACE and the lower shell or PLASTRON which are joined on each side by a BRIDGE. They all have clawed feet and like the lizards and snakes they shed their skins. This usually happens early in Spring when the individual shields (or scutes) of the shell lift and flake off, and pieces of skin from the head, neck, legs and tail peel away from underlying new skin.

Freshwater tortoises most commonly kept as pets in Victoria are the Eastern Long-necked (or Snake-necked) Tortoise and two short-necked species, the Macquarie (or Murray River) Tortoise and the snapping tortoise. The Macquarie is the largest of the three, reaching 35-40cm in length, and has a dull olive-brown, slightly flattened carapace and a cream plastron. The “Snapping Tortoise” has a rich brown carapace that has a distinct ridge or keel, particularly in small specimens, and the edges are strongly serrated. The plastron is cream and most individuals are 10-20cms in length. The Long-necked is probably the most widely kept species and reaches 25cms in length. The carapace is dull brown to black and the plastron is cream with the individual shields outlined in black. As its name suggests, this species has a long, snake-like neck. In very young specimens the plastron is marked with reddish-orange patches. If roughly handled Long-necks will exude a clinging foul-smelling fluid from glands adjacent to the bridge.

CHOOSING YOUR TORTOISE

Before obtaining your tortoise check with the Fisheries and Wildlife Service to make sure you are allowed to keep that particular species and whether you need any permits. The only legitimate sources of tortoises are licensed pet shops. You may not collect tortoises from the wild.

When choosing your animal, make sure that it is quite active and pulls its head back if touched. Its eyes should be bright and clear, and its nose and mouth clear of any mucous or saliva. Check the shell and skin for any signs of fungus (white or soft areas). These may be difficult to eradicate. The shell should be clean and hard. The shells of young tortoises may be rubbery due to an incorrect diet. Depending on the age of the animal this condition can often be reversed with a change of diet. When picked up, a tortoise should not feel too light as this could indicate starvation, dehydration or disease.

The claws are quite sharp so take care when handling a large tortoise. Some tortoises, especially the short necked species, can, and sometimes will, deliver a painful bite. Also remember to support the animal as much as possible during handling. Adult specimens can be transported in calico or cotton bags or in a box, but it is not advisable to transport several together as the weaker animals may be trampled or deprived of fresh air. Give them a good soak before departure and on arrival to prevent dehydration Do not put any rocks or branches etc., in the bag with tortoises and remember to keep the bag out of extremes of temperature and draughts. It is probably wise not to handle the tortoise until it has adjusted to its new surroundings.

HIBERNATION

Where winters are cold reptiles, including tortoises, spend this time of the year in a dormant state known as hibernation. Tortoises can’t control this. Low temperatures slow down the animals bodily functions until they are ticking over just enough to maintain life. Heart rate, breathing and all physical movement are all extremely slow and this condition is maintained until temperatures rise sufficiently for active life to be resumed.

At the onset of winter tortoises bury themselves in soil under bushes or logs, or in the mud at the bottom of ponds. Whilst hibernating their requirements for oxygen are so low that they can absorb enough through their skin from the water. Because their digestive systems slow down, tortoises should not be fed for a month or so before cold weather is expected. This will allow the digestive tract to be emptied before hibernation commences. Food in the stomach of a hibernating reptile will decompose, often killing the animal.

If tortoises are kept warm during winter they will not hibernate, although their appetites may be reduced.

HOUSING

It is not legal; in Victoria to keep tortoises that under lOcms in length from front to back of shell. It is advisable to have at least a 36” aquarium with a ramp either in the centre or at one end. Because the tortoise spends most of its time in the water a tank smaller than this does not provide enough water. Another thing to consider is the filtration. Tortoises produce a lot of waste so the filter must be of good quality. A canister filter with biological filling is an ideal choice. As well as providing good filtration it also creates some water movement.

LIGHTING

This is probably the most important part of setting up the aquarium. Tortoises that are being kept indoors are not getting sufficient ultraviolet light to keep them active and healthy. Without U.V. they cannot absorb enough calcium to keep their shell hard and their bones in good shape. You will need a fluorescent tube called a blacklight or reptiglow or similar that will be placed on top of the aquarium. As U.V. does not penetrate glass you will not have a full coverglass, but simply piece fitted to either end that have holes drilled in them that will enable you to connect light fittings that will take heat and basking globes. The purpose of these globes are as follows. The heat globe must be kept on when the room temperature will be below 22 degrees this will stop the tortoise developing respiratory infections from coming out of warm water and inhaling cold air. This globe should be a coloured globe that is of approximately 6Owts. The basking globe is a reflective spotlight that heats a surface, being the ramp. This enables the tortoise to come out of the water and sunbake. This will raise his body temperature, this helps with digestion.

Young tortoises are best kept warm all year round and only allowed to hibernate after their second year. A water temperature of 24-26 degrees Celsius can be maintained by using a tubular aquarium heater.

OUTDOORS

Once they exceed l2cms in shell length, both Long-necks and Macquarie’s can be kept outside all year round. The Snapping Tortoises can be placed outside in summer but Melbourne winters are probably too severe for this species. The minimum sized enclosure is a fenced or walled area 4m x 2m. The wall should be 6Ocms high and made of a smooth material such as fibro-cement or galvanised iron. Chicken wire should not be used as tortoises may injure themselves trying to push through it. One end of the enclosure should have a pond 2m x 2 x from 30-5Ocms deep! One section of the edge should be sloping for ease of access and a large rock or log should be placed half out of the water for basking. You will need to be able to clean the pond frequently so it must be easily drained. Do not be concerned about algae growing on the tortoise’s shell as a light covering is natural. The land area can be grass or fine gravel. A sheltered area, possibly a corner should be provided to allow the animals to escape from very high temperatures in summer and also from cold winds and rain in winter. From about April to September the tortoise will be inactive and spend most of their time buried under a bush or log, or on the bottom of the pond. The sheltered area can be a man-made structure, some low growing bushes or a pile of rocks or logs.

FEEDING

Tortoises will not feed during the winter. As with any reptile a tortoise will only feed and should only be fed when it is at the correct temperature. Failure to do so may lead to illness or even death. A good guide as to when to feed your tortoise is if it appears very active and seems to be searching for food.

When a tortoise begins to recognise a particular person or activity, it will associate this with food and expect to be fed. Care should be taken not to overfeed the animal as this may result in obesity. How much you give your tortoise will depend on its individual preferences but do not offer so much that food is continually left. As much food as will fit in a matchbox and offered two or three times a week is usually adequate for an average-sized tortoise. In general, the tortoise should be fed in water at a temperature of 23 degrees to 30 degrees Celsius. A temperature below 20 degrees Celsius will cause digestion problems and one above 32 degrees Celsius may lead to regurgitation.

Try to imagine what the tortoise would be eating if it were wild. Yabbies, fish, mosquito larvae and other water borne insects are a natural diet. There are several frozen foods that tortoises will also happily take and are more readily available than live food sources. Turtle treats, frozen whole fish, prawns or bloodworms. They also like crickets and there are pellets made by Sera, Wardley and Tetra.

Additional calcium may be provided by submerging a turtle neutralizer block in the water. This dissolves gradually, releasing usable calcium. To help prevent infection from scratches another slow release block is the turtle sulpha block.

PROBLEMS

Adult tortoises are very hardy animals and in most cases a break in the shell will heal itself if kept clean and an antiseptic or antibiotic cream applied. If it is serious, consult a veterinary surgeon, for the injury may need to be patched using fibre-glass fabric after the initial cleansing. Some epoxy-resin-based adhesives such as a 5 minute Araldite have also been used successfully.

If the tortoise has difficulty breathing, has discharge from the nose, gapes with its mouth open, holds its head up continually or is lethargic, it may have a respiratory infection. Consult a veterinary surgeon for treatment.

Young tortoises sometimes develop swollen areas of skin around the neck, legs and eyes. This is usually a bacterial infection which will require specialised treatment. Puffy eyes can also be caused by a Vitamin A deficiency.

Another problem which is sometimes seen in young tortoises is fungus. This is usually seen as small whitish areas first on the feet and then spreading to the face and tail. This can usually be treated but a veterinary surgeon should be consulted for the correct treatment.

Sick or injured tortoises should always be kept warm, with the temperature ranging from 25 degrees Celsius to 30 degrees Celsius.

There are only two vets that we recommend for reptiles Dr. Jim Greenwood at Canterbury Veterinary Clinic and Dr. Brendan Carmel who can be contacted through Lilydale Veterinary Clinic.

BREEDING

Freshwater tortoises must be at least 12 cm long before they can be sexed accurately. Males have a slightly concave plastron and a longer tail than a female of similar size. However these characteristics are not usually very obvious in Long-necks. In some older tortoises the female attains a larger overall size than the male. Australian tortoises mate in late spring with egg laying taking place in the early summer. While the eggs do have a brittle outer shell, they are not hard like hen’s eggs. An average-sized female Long-neck will lay 10-12 eggs while a Macquarie will lay 15-25. The eggs are best incubated buried in damp sand between 27 and 29 degrees Celsius. If fertile, Long-neck eggs will hatch in 60-75 days and those of Macquaries after 45-55 days.

The young tortoises should be placed in a clean tank separate from their parents and raised as previously described